Koh Pha Ngan and the influence of globalisation.

Positioned on the Gulf of Thailand’s south western edge, the island of Pha Ngan is a stunning and rather untouched travel destination. This friendly tiny island is less than 124 square miles in size, boasting superb white sandy beaches and tranquil fishing hamlets. Buffalo’s provide the labour force for the island’s fields, which are still ploughed by wooden ploughs, while on the side of the road, the laid-back locals manually split one coconut after the other. The soothing waterfalls located in the inland, attracted generations of the country’s kings. However, today the majority of the visitors are hippies and backpackers, who mainly come to experience Hat Rin Nok’s renowned Full Moon Party.

This highly popular party was originally created to celebrate the gigantic soft-gold ball, which one time per month rises out of the ocean, east from Hat Rin Nok. It all started as a group of friend’s small gathering and since than has rapidly transformed into an enormous young globetrotters’ “must-see” happening. Currently about 8,000 party lovers flock to Koh Pha Ngan each month the Full Moon Party takes place. As a result, the amount of accommodation establishments and pubs has significantly increased. Famous Asian and European DJs provide the music and create a chilled-out atmosphere, while a flourishing market might introduce you to a variety of illicit substances, you never heard of before!

The day after the party I arrived at Hat Rin Nok. After I had chosen a comfortable bungalow and checked in, I decided to head for the renowned beach. The weather that day was really hot, with the type of heat that the islanders wisely avoid and transforms especially the English ladies into bright red, bikini wearing lobsters. When stepping out of the towering palms’ shadow, I discovered that the fabulous beach originally radiated a unique emerald-watered and fine white-sanded, immaculate and paradisiacal ambience.

Through the numerous wooden fishing boats, plastic bottles gently floated in the serene ocean’s waters. In the fine sand I noticed the numerous bottle tops and joint ends. At the beach’s northern tip, used tampons and condoms were inserted between the rocks, below the MM pub, which is also the spot where you can get a quite effective hallucinatory mushroom cocktail for the price of 300 baht.

A few of my newly made mates were able to reach their home and got dressed into their swimming gear, but most of them still wore the same shaggy costumes as on the night of the party. Pierced nipples turned into the colour of a raw steak, while bathing in the bright sun. Some had a nap, some enjoyed the sea view, some swam; while others enthusiastically tried to keep the night alive, madly dancing on booming trance music, on the beach’s warm sand, in front a huge, three-metre high wall of powerful speakers.

As I was trying to find a relaxed spot to sit, I’ve passed this young, weird looking dude, wearing an ‘I love NYC’ T-shirt. On his shoulder there was this small, furry, round-eyed, shivering animal.
A guy near me noticed the scene as well and got rather angry. He told me that the animal was a very young, nocturnal Loris. He knew this because he had worked for four years with wild animals. He jumped up and asked agitated if the fellow knew what he was carrying on his shoulder. “Uhhh, say what?,” the dude mumbled, “No, to be honest I don’t have a clue what it is. Yesterday I bought the cute little fellow. Wanna hold or stroke it?”

No, the by now totally perplexed wildlife lover did not want to hold it, but tried to convince the dude with all his might, that he should give the frightened Loris to a park ranger, unless he wanted the animal to be dead the next day. “Sure man, no worries I’ll definitely do that” he replied. That same evening, just a few hours later I spotted him in two different pubs, proudly showing the little animal and trying to impress young backpacker girls.

The area behind the beach is crammed with pool tables, tattoo artists, internet café’s and massage parlours. Little hippie outlets sell centrifugal paintings and crystals while on their mats sitting, money-less Israelis try to sell marijuana pipes and necklaces. Hair braiders turn many tourists’ haircut into dreadlocks. Body piercing and toe rings are popular here as well.
I was looking for a place to eat, which did not had a Wide Screen Television set. The little streets were lined with eateries showing non-stop, bad quality pirated DVD films. Finally I did manage to find a place, which showed a sports channel, so at least I could enjoy watching a premier league football match. I’ve ordered, the all day available, English breakfast and by the time the fried eggs arrived, the joint’s owner suddenly turned of the match and started to play ‘Spiderman III’.

Maybe you think, what has become of Pha Ngan island. My opinion is that the island is a perfect example of the globalisation’s embodiment, which most of us probably despise. Two decades ago, before the beginning of the Full Moon Party, the small Hat Rin Nok fishing village was untouched for millennia. Only one generation later, which sadly is our generation, the village’s tourist infrastructure is too large, while fishing boats offer tourists all-you-can-smoke marijuana trips. Today, the once idealistic way of backpacked travelling, has turned into a serious