Koh Pha Ngan’s moon-mad party culture

Posted by admin on December 16th, 2008 filed in Action, Tourist tips, sightseeing, the locals

It almost sounds spiritual, when I hear about this location having a powerful connection to the moon. The lunar energy in the country seems to run strongest on the island of Phan Ngan, tranquilly positioned in the Gulf of Thailand. Every month, huge crowds of mainly young tourists travel to the island, to experience the world-famous full-moon party, which takes place on Haad Rin Beach.

Disembarking the ferry boat the day after the full-moon party time, I am greeted by the sight of two legless visitors swerving on a motorbike trying to make it back to their guesthouse. On Koh Phangan you can hire a motorbike at a daily fee of just 250 baht. However, hire bikes are not available for all visitors as I witnessed this Thai guy trying to rent one.

The fiercely-staring shop owner explained: “I’m sorry but we won’t risk hiring a motorcycle to a Thai visitor ever again. As deposit I can ask foreigners for their passports, otherwise no one can hire a bike. This rule applies all over Pha Ngan – and for good reason. Tourists get loaded, crash and dump their hired motorcycles, then depart the next day.” I noticed the anger in the voice of the owner when he continued saying: “They are really all the same; I hate persons who show no respect.”

I felt sad for the rental shop owner. It must be a torture having to deal each day with people you despise. A pumping heavy bass coming out of a speaker near my beach bungalow rudely awakens me the next morning. At breakfast two teenagers refuse to finish their all-nighter and sightseeing is what they decide to do next. I watch them stumble towards their bikes with a can of Chang Beer in their hands.

Back at my bungalow in Ban Tai I still can hear the loud beats of monotonous techno music blasting out of the speaker, which makes it impossible to hear the breaking waves on the paradisiacal beach in front of me. Suddenly the whole scene feels wrong and I truly miss the relaxed ambience of my first visit to the island several years ago.

So much for a happy holiday – after only one night spending at my beach bungalow, I want to get away from Koh Pha-ngan’s southern part for good. A little later I hit the road leading to the northern part. I’ll drive through Thongsala, which has become the island’s principal town boasting food stalls, a night bazaar, 7-Eleven shops, bookshops, internet café’s and even a superstore. Both Thong Nai Pan Noi and Thong Nai Pan Yai are fabulous beaches on the island’s northeast shore. Online Koh Pha Ngan travel guide

Located in the far north, I arrive in Chaloklum, which is a serene fishing village with a few diving shops and seafood restaurants. At a low speed I cruise through following a route to the northwest shore, passing Mae Haad Beach and staring towards Koh Ma far away. Getting hungry, I turn right onto a bumpy road leading to Haad Salad. It seems that the shop owners I pass by for a long time not have seen a visitor, and a yawning shopkeeper stares hopefully in my direction.

Haad Salad is one of the island’s quietest beaches and I decide to rent a beach hut. At check-in, the beachside resort’s receptionist mentions that this destination was overcrowded with partying visitors this time the year before. Now the resort is totally empty and plenty of huts to choose from. At Haad Salad I end up staying for a few overnights, almost not noticing the shrinking moon.